Dominica

By far the best stay in the Caribbean. Dominica has superb underwater options evidenced by the pics.

You have to say it Domin EE ca. (Not like Dominican Republic). Used to be British so all English speaking. Now a republic and a UN member state.

It bills itself as the nature island and less spoiled than the other ones. I didn’t go to hike but seems to be excellent for that too.

The airport is on the north west of the island so its a good hour to get to the capital on the West. I stayed at Sea World Hotel which is on booking.com It is a few minutes out of town (which is reflected in the price). It had amazing staff who arranged a private boat to take me freediving then a wild party in the evening.

It is trying to build up tourism – I can’t vouch for commercial diving operations as they only wanted to help if I was staying with them – hence I got a man in a boat for myself.

The town of Roseau has an interesting little history museum.

With more time it is possible to ferry to Martinique and Guadaloupe.

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Togo

The Voodoo Market in Lome. Animism is the dominant religion in next door Benin – the market is run by people from Benin so I could have taken similar photos the next day while in Benin.

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Sao Tome and Principe

A visit to the tiny island nation of Sao Tome and Principe.

An ex Portugese colony it was a world leader in the Cacau trade for hundreds of years. It still dominates the island economy. However 7 years ago an effort was made to increase tourism. Flights are only from Angola, Ghana (through from Lisbon) and Equatorial Guinea.

It became independent in 1975 along with the other ex Portugese colonies but without the bloodshed.

I call it the Laos of Africa in the sense it is so chilled out.

It used to supply Cadbury until early 1900s when Cadbury, a quaker and anti slavery man, sent an investigator to see if the Portuguese were still using slavery. Seems they were but with various tricks.

I found a cool abandoned nightclub by the airport – it was made from planes… luckily the owner just happened to turn up and I got the story – the planes were ex Canadian Arctic Tourist planes that somehow ended up being used in the Biafra war (a separatist war in eastern Nigeria in the 1960s which briefly created a new state). The planes were abandoned in the Sao Tome Jungle and found by two brothers. They converted the planes into a nightclub and wedding venue which was shut down by regulation. If anyone knows historian on Biafra and can explain how these planes got here please let me know.

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Niger

I flew into the capital city Lilongwe so I could taxi out to the Lake. I would recommend instead visiting Blantyre which is the commercial capital and has the museum. There is basically nothing for tourists in Lilongwe and it is very spread out so transport tricky.

I flew into the capital city Lilongwe so I could taxi out to the Lake. I would recommend instead visiting Blantyre which is the commercial capital and has the museum. There is basically nothing for tourists in Lilongwe and it is very spread out so transport tricky.

Best part was getting out of the tourist market into the second hand clothes market and wandering around there.

Taxis are tricky – flat rate of $35 USD from the airport to town in a 30 minute ride is clearly ridiculous. I negotiated a driver to take me to the Lake and back and in spite of the lake being 1/3 of the Country he got lost and couldn’t find it. His wheel then blew up and I ended up ditching him for someone who had heard of Lake Malawi and would take me..

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Mauritania

A surprisingly nice visit to one of the least visited countries on earth.

My original plan was to photograph the famous ship graveyard of Nouidbou where 500 wrecks had been rusting in the shallows for years. Sadly they cleaned that up. Other option was 7 hour trip to see the worlds longest train and some UNESCO sites. Needed an extra day and would have.

The visa is 120 euro, cheapest flight in is $200+ in spite of being 15% full at best so they don’t make it easy.

I had wonderful hospitality at last mintue with the most chilled out hotel owner ever. Everything was ‘no problem’ and he meant it.

They don’t like photos here so must ask – most most of the fishermen are Senegalese.

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Mali - Djenne

What may be a once in a lifetime trip.

1. Djenne is a place I’ve always wanted to visit. The Grand Mosque rivals Great Zimbabwe and Ancient Egypt as the most spectacular structure on the continent.

2. In 2012 there were 17,000 tourists a year. I was the 100th person of the year and visited in November. My hotel booked 630 people in 2011 (guestbook records) and I was the 16th of the year and the first in 3 months. It is incredible to be THE ONLY tourist in a whole town.

3. In 2012 jihadis who had been on Ghadaffis side in Libya headed across the desert and went through the north of Mali on a killing spree. That scared away the tourists.

4. I wanted to go one step further to Timbuktu and given the opportunity I probably would but hadn’t booked enough time.

5. Apart from the first 10 (my faves) the photos are in order. They cover the sunset and the next morning sunrise from 6am. 

6. The mosque is off limits to non Muslims. I’ve seen documentaries of people trying to get in, read online etc.. and it doesn’t happen. My guide spoke to the Imam that I had been to 38 Muslim countries and studied the history and.. I was given an invite in and to the roof to photograph. This would obviously be impossible if 300 tourists a week were in town.

7. One only needs to think about the economic impact of the terrorists on the people here. 300 tourists a week buying arts and crafts, eating, hotels etc.. to 1-2 a week. Really sad stuff. The morning was the morning of the shootings in Paris and people were coming and apologizing/saying sorry to me. Reality is they have nothing to do with it but are paying the heaviest price.

8. A week later terrorists murdered a bunch of foreigners in the capital, Bamako.

9. I shot a chapter for Touchable Earth in Mali which I am editing. A huge thanks to Sounkalo DEMBELE from iEARN.orgfor taking a week off work just to help me produce it and take me on this tour. If you go to Mali he can arrange the tours as well.

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Ivory Coast

Short stop at Abidjan and Grand Bassam. Sadly the museum was looted in riots a few years back so isn’t open. Grand Bassam was a colonial capital with some wonderful old buildings. It was also the scene of a terrorist attack a month after I was there at the hotel I’m standing in front of for the beach photos.

The main tourist attraction is the church. There is another one outside the city which is meant to be the largest church in the world so I guess something to see next time.

Also had some really cool artwork. If you are going then hit up Tié Jean Claude Djè and visit his gallery in Grand Bassam.

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Burkina Faso

Previously Upper Volta. Ex French colony. Renowned for its soldiers – lots of solid guys walking around. Road trip from Ouagadougou (said ‘Waga dou gou’) to Tiebele and the magnificent Cour Royale. Ended up staying on the roof top of a prince of this 500 year old village. Wild night out on $5 a 40 ounce bottles of rum then a wonderful tour. The womenfolk paint the houses . By far the most authentic visit – the shower stall walls were only 4.5 feet hight – no electricity – so showering in pitch black 4 meters from 3 women making my dinner with my top half sticking out, under the stars. If you want to visit this place contact Arnaud Ouambatoua[email protected]

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USA - Worlds largest Hot Air Balloon Festival

Sensational – every October in New Mexico – 600+ take off at the same time in the morning. Very lucky to be given a ride by some very kind folks.

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USA - Utah - Salt Flat speed racing

Old pics 2011 at the Bonnyville salt flats in Utah. Flattest place on earth and apparently the only one you can see the curvature of the earth with bare eye (see photo). Sadly it was overcast – when there is blue sky the contrast of the generally brightly painted cars with the salt was spectacular.

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