Ukraine - Chernobyl
Very interesting tour of one of the greatest tragedies in history.
What surprised me the most is that 3000 people work within the exclusion zone. Often on 4 day shifts they are in contruction, engineering and science.
There are also some people aged in late 70s who have moved back to thier old land.
Another surprise was the missle tracking station which is almost a kilometre long and was decommissioned after the accident.
The sacrifice of the firefighers and workers who were conscripted to clearn up is just awful – there are a few good documentaries on youtube about them.
Thanks Solo East travel for making sure I made it out there, highly recommend.
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Russia
Great visit to St Petersburg, Moscow and Miass. It was a special occasion being the 70th anniversary of the end of WW2. So.. big parade into Red Square and lots of festivities.
Very interesting in terms of the Soviet symbols and slogans contrasting with modern Russia.
Hospitality was exceptional – everyone welcoming and friendly.
Practically everyone wanted to know ‘what do people in your country think about Russia? Do they think we are aggressive’? My response was I don’t read the news so I wouldn’t know why anyone would think that.
So many museums and art galleries I couldn’t make it to, it will definitly be on the return to list soon.
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Moldova - Transdniestra
Very interesting visit to this tiny country. Ex Soviet Republic and after the collapse the Russian speakers, predominantly on the east side of the Dniestra river felt they would be 2nd best in the country vs the Romanian speaking west portion.
Nasty war broke out and one town on the West side was eventually taken by the East. Now Russian peacekeepers are there.
Transdniestra declared independence but is only recognized by Russia. They have their own currency that isn’t convertible outside the territory. They still have a lot of Lenin statues and Soviet symbols around. Crossing into it you require a passport and be prepared to answer some questions.
The entire territory is run by a Monopoly called ‘Sheriff’ they have been accused of illegal arms manufacture. The stadium cost 300 million Euro and is built in the poorest territory of the poorest country in Europe.
Lucky to meet a Moldovan heading over the border the next day so I had a Russian speaking travel buddy that helped a lot – thanks ! Павел Капет
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Belarus
An ex Soviet Republic well known for its continuing close relationship with Russia. It was totally obliterated in World War 2 and Minsk was rebuilt from scratch by Stalin as a show of the fortitude of the Belarusians. The new war museum is well presented including in English.
The Island of Tears is a small island dedicated to the Afghanistan War. The statue is a water feature and very moving.
I highly recommend renting a bike from the place near the musuem as the city is built for cyclyists with dedicated paths.
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Somaliland
Was British Somaliland – then joined Italian Somalia now wants back out. Interesting visit. The wads of currency were quite something, perhaps time to knock a zero off. Gearing up for 18 May independence day so lots of colors and flags. Rock paintings of Las Geel are maybe 9000 years old.
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Somalia
Visit to the magnificent city of Mogadishu.
Many thanks to Sebastian Lindstrom for arranging the visit and the amazing work he is doing to tell a positive story from this place.
I was hosted at Peace Hotel with service and comfort that exceeded expectations – I don’t understand how anyone can provide free espresso coffee and still pay their bills.
Why is Somalia so important? The port of Mogadishu is strategically located for trade over 1000 years. Before judging why it is known for violence perhaps ask why.. the 5 stars on the flag are the 5 areas of greater Somalia – Italian Somalia, British Somaliland, Djibouti (french somalia) Ogaden (Ethiopia) and North West territories (Kenya).
The place was carved up then spat out incomplete – the Brits gave the Ogaden to Ethiopia due to an agreement made 50 years earlier even though it was largely ethnic Somalis. The French kept Djibouti for strategic reasons, Somaliland didn’t feel it was represented so splintered, North West territories is where Kenya tries to keep the peace and locals want independence.
It has some of the best street art I’ve ever seen – note the style differences in my Chad album. Also west africa art style.
Disclaimer – the street scenes were shot through a tinted bullet proof glass while moving. I over cut the frame rate so it wouldn’t blur and the result is more pixelation than I would prefer.
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Ethiopia
Mainly transit stops so not many pics. 2nd country to adopt Christianity (after Armenia), worlds largest coffee producer, qhat supplier to Djiobuti, and home to an excellent museum on what marxism did for them (lots of dead, tortured, and starved Ethiopians – chilling and graphic but what is achieved by watering down such an important point (lesson?) for history).
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Djibouti
Ex French colony on the horn of Africa. It controls Ethiopia’s only port and has a huge US military base (great position to middle east for drones) and French and.. even the Japanese military. Lowest point in Africa, 2nd saltiest body of water.
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Uzbekistan
Capital of Tashkent was great – museums about Soviets and Timor – who ruled more of the world than Ghengis Kahn but with less PR, were fantastic – free english speaking guides swooped in and seemed surprised when I tipped them, english captions too.
The three UNESCO world heritage town of Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva also delivered. The Soviets fixed up the ruins in the 70s and as a result Uzbekistan has a tourist industry. Still tricky on the visas but improving rapidly. Spectacular Islamic architecture, tourist friendly folks, good prices on everything.
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Turkmenistan
This place is sometimes referred to as North Korea with money. No facebook (or Tinder!). Huge oil wealth so the capital is the city of white marble. Totally perfect, no pedestrians, shop fronts, ugly carparks, just perfect streets and incredible buildings. The previous pres had a monument (pictured) with a gold statue of him that turned to face the sun. The people are kept happy with 20 cent per litre petrol. There are 3 UNESCO sites – ancient capitals of the Parthians and Persians. Highlight is Darveza – a pit that was leaking methane so the Soviets lit it to burn it off, in the 1970s.. now a tourist attraction in the middle of nowhere. Very touching how kind my first driver was – he and his brother drove me 11 hours, then they were driving back 9 hours on their own – for $125.. (I did tip on top as that was just ridiculous to accept it). They never rushed me and called next day to make sure I was well. Very sad that good people work for so little money in a country where there is plenty to go around. One of the hardest countries in the world to visit – it is one of 3 (with North Korea and Bhutan) where it is mandatory to have a set tour (which is expensive) unless you can get a transit visa (which I did) and that is tricky. That said, if you can you should go. The Museum was great – no photos allowed – it had a whole floor for the pres – they photoshopped him doing everything from milking cows to reading xrays and even performing surgery . They didn’t even try hard to make head proportional most the time it was literally just plonked on someone elses body.
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